Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
